Mayan klettert Salathe
Mayan Smith-Gobat climbing the Salathe Headwall from Andy Bardon on Vimeo.
Mama sichert! ;0)
smitten ! bald da
Wholesale through vistacerro.com and bouldering.com
download through iclimb.com
Die Damen haben es drauf!
"Genügend Kraft ist ein Zustand, den es gar nicht gibt". W.Güllich
Von: CafeKraft (Vimeo User)
Sehr gutes Trainingsvideo von Trainern und Mitglieder des Frankenkaders:
Schweiß ist Schwäche die den Körper verläßt from cafekraft on Vimeo.
Axel Perschmann in Hueco
Axel Perschmann climbs "El Techo de los tres B", V11 (fb 8a) in Hueco Tanks from Axel Perschmann on Vimeo.
David Lama-Red Bull
Under the auspices such a topic title I wish I could report that I have chopped some of Maestri's bolts, but I have not. The bolts I chopped two days ago are some of the many that David Lama's film crew placed last summer.
Das wirft kein gutes Bild auf David Lama und Red Bull:
Above the col of Patience (the shoulder) I came across 20 “David Lama-Red Bull bolts”, as opposed to the 12 reported by Lama himself and the person responsible for placing them, the Austrian mountain guide Heli Putz. Because of time constraints I could not make an in-detail inspection of that section of the route, so I am guessing there were a few more. Of those 20 bolts, I managed to chop 17. In contrast to what Lama and Putz reported, all bolts were very much on the route, drilled in existing belays or in the middle of pitches, all in places where natural protection is readily available and where for more than 30 years climbers have climbed by.
Heli Putz had also reported to Will Gadd that the rappel line he bolted below the col of Patience (the shoulder) followed an independent line. This also proved to be incorrect. More kool-aid or whatever fizzy drink his employer manufactures to cover up for his own idiocy. The rappel line Putz bolted follows the same buttress that the normal rappel line follows, sharing the first two anchors, which he retro-bolted and later takes a more direct line to the ground, following a line that is often used by climbers to rappel when conditions are very dry. Next to each of his bolted anchors there are old rap stations on natural gear. Because of bad weather I was unable to chop those anchors. In that section I saw 20 bolts, but likely there are more, in contrast to the 14 reported by Lama and Putz.
Also worth noting Lama and the Red Bull film crew left 5 haul-bags of stuff on the mountain last season when they bailed out of town, including the 700 meters of fix line on the route. About a month later they hired three Argentine guides to clean up their mess. They did a great job and managed to pull most everything off the route, with the exception of two haulbags (not one as reported by Lama and Putz). Just four days ago two Argentine climbers brought down in disgust those two remaining haul-bags and hopefully will hold their contents up for ransom.
In his response to the debacle Lama wrote saying that for his second attempt to free the Compressor route during the 2010-2011 season they would take a different, lighter approach. However reports suggest that the team size has been increased rather than reduced, so again in this case Lama’s statement might be but a diversion.
With the level of misinformation that the Red Bull crew is dishing out their fancy fizzy drink is fast becoming the modern Kool-aid. Dont drink it!
Danke Rolo !
Mehr info unter SuperTopo.
smitten !
bezaubert sein
eingenommen sein
heimgesucht sein
verknallt sein (ugs.)
Also ich bin alles bei dem Teaser. Freu mich schon drauf!
Smitten Teaser from Smitten the movie on Vimeo.
Armenien bewegt!!
Viel Spaß wünscht
Michi
More super amazing first ascents in Armenia from Rock & Ice on Vimeo.
Armenien, klettern, hä?? Sehr cool!!
Gratulation Mädels
hier ein Report von Maurizio Oviglia und UP:
FIRST FEMALE TEAM FREE ASCENT OF FREE RIDER
Madaleine Sorkin and Kate Rutherford
Madaleine Sorkin (28) and Kate Rutherford (29) completed in five days he first female-team free ascent of Free Rider (VI 5.12d, 37 pitches 2,900 ft), a four-pitch variation to the Salathé Wall that is the most popular free line on the main face of El Cap.
read more on Climbing - Amanda Fox report
Other news on Madeleine Sorkin UpClimbing here and here
Source: Climbing and blog Kate Rutheford
Photo: Mikey Schaefer
Greenland vertical sailing
Nico and Team
photo Bob Shepton
Three months expedition
The team of Nico Favresse, Olivier Favresse, Sean Villanueva and Ben Ditto is leaving for a 3 months trip to Greenland: the project is to climb virgin wall on the fjords of the west coast.
Greenland 2010 Nico Favresse
"That’s it! I am super psyched to announce you that I’ll be going to Greenland this summer. This time, no more long walking (last expedition in Baffin Island we walked a total of more than 600km) we will go there by sailboat in order to approach some remote Virgin big walls located in the middle of the west coast of Greenland (basically in front of Baffin Island).
According to our sources there should be a huge amount of unclimbed walls in this area. The sailboat will be our base camp/music studio and way to travel and explore. This time the adventure will not only be the climbing but also the sailing since we will have to sail trough the icebergs and across the Atlantic between Greenland and Europe.
It’s our taste for adventures and our motivation to do some expedition with less ecological impact and more by fair means that lead us to the idea to do a climbing expedition where our way of transportation would be a sail boat. With a bit of research, Greenland seemed the perfect destination for this adventure.
I started my research through my contacts and I was introduced to Bob Shepton. Bob has sailed all over the world and has brought many climbing expedition on his sailboat to explore virgin areas in the arctic. He knows very well all the west coast of Greenland and all its Fjords. He was awarded a few trophies for his exploration with his boat including the Tilman medal.
As soon as I contacted him, he send me some pictures of some world class virgin big walls that rises straight up from the ocean and offered to bring us there with his sailboat. Even though I had other plans for this summer, his proposition was way too good to refuse and a unique opportunity we couldn’t miss.
Due to the limited size of the boat (about 10 m) and our large amount of music instruments only a team of 4 can join Bob on his boat. As usual Sean Villanueva and my bother Olivier will be part of the expedition. Also Ben Ditto, very talented climber and pro photographer will join us. Maybe you remember, he climbed with us in Patagonia making the first free ascent of the south African route in Torres del Paine. The duration of the expedition will be of approximately 3 months from mid-june to mid-September.
Stay tuned on www.xpedition.be for the music and climbing progress of this expedition."
Ben Ditto site
Dalia Oyeda klettert erste 8c
Dalia Oyeda, eine Kletterin aus Spanien, konnte ihr Projekt fish eye nach 2 Monaten punkten. Die Route wurde letztes Jahr von Chris Sharma eingebohrt. Sie ist 50! Meter lang und wartet mit einer Überraschung in den letzten Metern auf weitere Anwärter/innen.
Quelle: Kairn; Daila Ojeda blog
Ph. Pete O'Donovan
Video Herbsthangeln
hier ein cooles Video zu den aufwendigen Vorbereitungen zum Boulder event „Herbsthangeln“ im Blockwerk Mainz. Gedreht wurde das Ding mit einem kleinen Helikopter ;0). Schaut mal rein!
cheers
Michi
